Best Table Saws Australia: Top Picks for Every Budget
Finding the best table saws Australia has to offer comes down to one question: what will you actually rip? A saw that breaks down sheets of plywood has a very different job from one cutting decking and framing timber all day. We compared the current lineups from DeWalt, Bosch, Makita, Ryobi and Ozito, checking real specs and current Australian retailer listings.
Every price below is in Australian dollars, from Bunnings and Sydney Tools listings checked in November 2026. Prices move with sales and vary by store, so treat them as a guide, not a quote. Skin-only prices exclude batteries and chargers; special-order listings mean a wait, not same-day pickup.
The Short List: Our Best Table Saw Picks
Here are the winners.
- Best overall: DeWalt DWE7491-XE 254mm 2000W — $832, biggest rip capacity in its class
- Best for tradies: Bosch GTS 10 XC 2100W 254mm — $1,449, sliding table, six-year warranty
- Best value: Ryobi 1800W 254mm RTS1825RG — $549, full-size saw, half the trade-brand price
- Best budget: Ozito 2000W 254mm TBS-2010 — $199, cheapest way into a full-size saw
- Best cordless: Ryobi 18V ONE+ HP Brushless 210mm — $399 tool only, ripping with no cord
Best Overall: DeWalt DWE7491-XE 254mm 2000W Table Saw
The DeWalt DWE7491-XE is our pick for most people who rip timber seriously. The 2000W motor drives a 254mm blade through sheet goods and hardwood, and the rack-and-pinion fence telescopes to an 825mm rip capacity — the widest in this class. Bunnings lists it at $832.
Key specs
- Motor: 2000W corded; blade: 254mm (10 inch)
- Rip capacity: 825mm right, 558mm left; depth of cut: 79mm at 90°, 57mm at 45°
- Bevel: -3° to 48°; table size: 670 x 630mm
Why it stands out
Rip capacity and fence accuracy. The rack-and-pinion fence locks parallel to the blade at any setting, which repeat rips demand, and Australian Wood Review testing found it gave the cleanest cuts of the benchtop saws it tested. The honest limitation is portability: it wants a stand or solid bench. Buy this if you rip sheets regularly; if you only crosscut the odd length of pine, the Ryobi or Ozito below will do.
Best for Tradies: Bosch GTS 10 XC 2100W 254mm Table Saw
For maximum grunt in a fixed workshop, the Bosch GTS 10 XC is the answer. Its 2100W motor and 254mm blade cut construction timber all day, and the integrated sliding table carries wide boards past the blade with ease. Sydney Tools lists it at $1,449, or $1,559 with the GTA6000 stand.
Key specs
- Motor: 2100W corded; blade: 254mm (10 inch); integrated sliding table
- Motor brake and overload protection
- Warranty: 6 years with online registration through Bosch Australia
Why it stands out
Workshop capability and build quality. The sliding table separates it from every jobsite saw here: crosscutting wide panels becomes a one-person job, and the motor brake stops the blade quickly. The trade-off is size and price — it is the most expensive saw here and it wants a permanent spot in the workshop. Buy it if you cut panels regularly; for occasional ripping, the DeWalt or Ryobi cost less.
Best Value: Ryobi 1800W 254mm Table Saw RTS1825RG
Not everyone needs a $1,000 trade saw. The Ryobi 1800W 254mm table saw, listed at Bunnings for $549, hits the sweet spot for home use: a full-size 254mm blade that handles sheet goods, decking and framing. Being corded, there is no battery platform to buy into.
Key specs
- Motor: 1800W corded; blade: 254mm (10 inch)
- Rating: 3.7 stars from 69 Bunnings reviews
Why it stands out
Full-size capacity at half the price of the trade brands. A 254mm blade and 1800W motor cover nearly every cut a home renovator will attempt. The honest limitation is refinement: the fence and mitre gauge will not feel as precise as the DeWalt’s, and for fine furniture work that difference shows. For renovation work, it does not.
Best Budget: Ozito 2000W 254mm Table Saw TBS-2010
Ozito’s 2000W 254mm table saw, listed at Bunnings for $199, proves you do not need $500 for a full-size table saw. It gives you the two features that matter most in a first table saw — a 254mm blade and a 2000W motor — at a price that undercuts the big brands by two-thirds. It carries a 3.9-star rating from 70 Bunnings reviews.
Key specs
- Motor: 2000W corded; blade: 254mm (10 inch)
- Rating: 3.9 stars from 70 Bunnings reviews
Why it stands out
Full-size ripping at the price of many handheld saws. Build quality, fence precision and dust collection are basic — check the fence is parallel and the riving knife is fitted before trusting it on finish work. Buy it as a first saw; for heavy or fine work, step up to the Ryobi or DeWalt.
Best Cordless: Ryobi 18V ONE+ HP Brushless 210mm Table Saw
Ryobi’s ONE+ HP brushless 210mm table saw is the cordless pick that does not ask you to accept a toy cut. It runs on 18V ONE+ batteries, spins its 210mm blade through sheet goods and framing timber, and goes anywhere on site. Bunnings lists it at $399 tool only — batteries and charger are extra, and a 6Ah pack is recommended for sustained ripping.
Key specs
- Platform: 18V ONE+ HP, brushless motor; blade: 210mm (8-1/4 inch)
- Rating: 4.3 stars from 39 Bunnings reviews
Why it stands out
Portability plus ecosystem. No cord means ripping anywhere on site without hunting for power, and ONE+ is one of the largest 18V platforms, so existing Ryobi owners slot straight in. The honest limitation is cost: a skin-only price looks competitive until you add a battery and charger, so compare the full kit cost against the corded Ryobi first. Buy it if you already own ONE+ batteries.
Also Worth a Look
Also worth a look: the Makita 2704N 260mm ($1,250 at Bowens), the DeWalt 54V XR 210mm FLEXVOLT ($1,118, special order at Bunnings), and the Ozito PXC 36V 210mm ($299 skin only at Bunnings). The Makita deserves an honest note: it has the deepest cut here at 93mm, but owner reviews are mixed, with some tradies reporting the motor struggles under heavy ripping. Among the best table saws Australia has on offer, these three are the next tier down rather than the first choice.
How to Choose the Best Table Saws Australia Has to Offer
Specs only tell half the story. Here is what actually matters when you compare the best table saws Australia has on offer.
Blade size: 210mm, 254mm or 260mm
Blade size sets your cutting depth. A 210mm saw cuts to around 55–60mm deep, which suits sheet goods and framing. A 254mm saw is the sweet spot: it cuts to around 79mm and handles decking, sheet goods and framing.
Rip capacity: the number that matters most
Rip capacity is how wide a board you can cut between the blade and the fence — the most important number on a table saw. The DeWalt’s 825mm lets you break down full sheets; a saw with 400mm of rip capacity cannot, no matter how powerful its motor. Check rip capacity before wattage.
Fence quality: accuracy lives here
A table saw is only as accurate as its fence. A rack-and-pinion fence, like the DeWalt’s, locks parallel every time. A basic clamp fence needs checking with a tape at the front and back of the blade before every cut, because a fence that toes in will pinch the timber and kick it back.
Corded vs cordless
Corded saws give full power all day with no battery cost. Cordless saws give freedom from power points, but skin-only prices hide the battery and charger cost — add up the full kit before comparing. If you already own the batteries, cordless is an easy win; if you do not, corded usually wins on value.
Blades: tooth count matters
The blade that ships with the saw is a starting point. Fewer teeth cut faster and rougher, which suits framing; more teeth cut slower and cleaner, which suits sheet goods. A 24-tooth rip blade transforms a budget saw on long cuts, and a 40-tooth combination blade is the best all-rounder. Replace a blade as soon as it starts tearing instead of cutting — a dull blade is slower and more dangerous.
Table Saw vs Mitre Saw
A table saw and a mitre saw are not substitutes. A table saw wins on ripping: long, straight cuts along the length of a board, and breaking down sheet goods. A mitre saw wins on repeat crosscuts and angles: set the angle once and every board comes out identical. Most workshops end up with both; our mitre saw guide covers the crosscutting side.
Table Saw vs Circular Saw
A table saw and a circular saw overlap, but they are not the same tool. A table saw wins on accuracy: the fence holds the cut line, so ten identical rips come out ten identical widths. A circular saw wins on portability: the saw goes to the timber. Most workshops end up with both; our circular saw guide covers the handheld side.
Setting Up Safely
A table saw is the most dangerous common workshop tool, and most accidents come from kickback. Always fit the riving knife and blade guard, keep both hands clear of the blade, and use a push stick for any cut that brings your hand within 150mm of the blade. Never stand directly behind the blade and never cut freehand — the fence or mitre gauge guides every cut. Wear eye and hearing protection, and a dust mask indoors. Always unplug the saw (or remove the battery) before changing a blade. The Housing Industry Association’s guide to using hand and power tools safely and our workshop safety guide cover the full setup routine.
Five Table Saw Mistakes That Ruin Cuts
Most rough cuts come from technique, not the saw:
- Removing the riving knife. The riving knife stops the cut closing on the blade and kicking the board back. Never run a table saw without it.
- Cutting freehand. A board guided by hand alone wanders, binds and kicks back. Every cut uses the fence or the mitre gauge.
- A fence that is not parallel. A fence that toes in pinches the timber against the back of the blade. Check it with a tape before cutting.
- Forcing the cut. Pushing hard does not cut faster — it deflects the blade and burns the timber. Let the blade do the work.
- No support for long boards. An unsupported board tips as the cut finishes, binding the blade and splintering the offcut. Support both sides of the cut.
Keeping Your Table Saw Accurate for Years
Clean pitch and resin off the blade regularly — a dirty blade cuts rough. Blow dust out of the fence rails and mechanisms, and check the fence is parallel every few months. Wax the table top lightly to stop timber dragging, and store blades dry so they do not rust. With basic care, a quality table saw easily lasts a decade. When the cut edge needs finishing, a random orbit sander takes ripped edges from rough to furniture-smooth, and it keeps one of the best table saws Australia has on offer cutting like new for years.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size table saw do I need?
For most buyers, a 254mm saw is the sweet spot among the best table saws Australia has on offer: it cuts to around 79mm deep and handles sheet goods, decking and framing comfortably without trade-saw bulk. Choose a 210mm saw for lighter work, and a 260mm saw for the deepest cuts.
Is a table saw worth it for a home workshop?
Yes, if you rip timber or break down sheet goods. No other common tool rips long, straight, repeatable cuts, and a $199 Ozito or $549 Ryobi covers most home workshop work. If you only crosscut boards to length, a mitre saw or circular saw costs less.
Can a table saw cut metal or masonry?
Most table saws are built for timber and timber products. Aluminium can be cut with a suitable non-ferrous blade, but masonry is a job for other tools entirely. Do not fit a wood blade to a job it was never made for.
Do I need a table saw stand?
Not strictly — a solid bench works for shorter boards. A dedicated stand earns its keep for long stock and sheet goods, because it supports both sides of the cut and keeps the saw at a comfortable working height.
Should I buy corded or cordless?
Buy corded for full power and the lowest total cost, especially if you cut in one workshop. Buy cordless if you already own the batteries for that platform or you regularly cut away from power points, and remember to compare the full kit price, not just the skin-only figure.
What causes table saw kickback?
Kickback happens when timber pinches the back of the blade and is thrown back at the operator. The usual causes are a fence that is not parallel, a missing riving knife, internal stress in the timber, and feeding a board freehand. A fitted riving knife, a parallel fence and a push stick prevent almost all of it.
